Get Joan Smalls’ “Denim” Smoky Eye From the CFDAs
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2015/06/03 15:39
Joan [Smalls] has such a critical eye—in her head she’s a makeup artist!” said face painter Sir John of the supermodel. “I mean, I’m good, but she’s really into it and loves makeup. We can speak makeup talk and I can give her references and she gets it. No other client that I have loves makeup like Joan loves makeup.” And it shows. From the unforgettable violet lip at the 2014 Met Gala to the graphic black liner that winged out at both the inner and outer corners of the eye for the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic this past weekend, Smalls is never one to shy away from a full-on look. Not even last night’s downpour could deter her from the “denim” smoky eye the duo devised a week ago—apropos, seeing as the model recently launched a capsule collection with True Religion. “Even though she has asimple halter dress, I wanted you to be able to see her eyes from a block away,” he said. Mission accomplished. Here, Sir John reveals the secret to pushing the smoky eye “into the future” and why you should “go big or go home.”
photo:www.marieprom.co.uk/evening-dresses
Joan Smalls with her date, jewelry designer Jennifer Fisher
Think outside the black. “Blue is modern. Everyone thinks they can only do a black, gunmetal, or brown smoky eye, so navy was a way of doing something expected in an unexpected color. I want to get as close to denim blue jeans as possible.”
Take a different tack. “A lot of people are going to say, ‘Oh, smoky eyes, they’ve been done.’ But what makes the look modern and pushes it into the future are the texture and the shape. With Joan, we wanted to go big or go home,” said Sir John. “It was all about a blown-out smoky eye, but really lateral. Not a bowl or a round shape, but very elongated and exaggerated—sort of anime in the sense that I wanted to make her eye look like a shape it wasn’t.”
Build your eye before your base. “Shadow can fall down on the cheeks and you can make mistakes without having to worry about ruining your final look,” the pro explained. After crafting the lid look, Sir John perfected the edges around the eyes with tinted moisturizer and concealer before sculpting Smalls’ cheekbones, nose, and temples.
Start small. “One rule of thumb is when you want an exaggerated shape or elongated eye, start close to the lash line, and with any excess product on your brush, make it dissipate outward,” he advised. “If you take a lot of eyeliner and go right into a big shape, it looks garish. Start small and blow it out.”
Reach for a synthetic brush. After rimming the upper and lower lashes with navy eye kohl, Sir John suggests warming up the bands of liner with your fingertip to make them easier to manipulate. Then, use a clean, synthetic concealer brush with short bristles to blend out the shape and finish with a soft, natural-hair brush toeliminate any harsh lines. “With any kind of emollient product like eye kohl, a synthetic brush is going to move it easier than a natural one,” he said. “I would be there all day if I started with a natural-hair blending brush!”
Apply more than one shade. Once you’ve achieved your shape with liner, set it with a trio of shadows. “If you want prismatic, dimensional eyes, you use two to three different jewel tones—not just one because it will be flat,” explained the pro. “I used a deep navy, a navy with a jewel-tone base, and a navy with a silver undertone. I pressed each into the [lid] and washed away any lines with a clean brush.” Just be sure to keep the color strictly on the lid. “What makes it modern is above the crease and on the brow bone, there’s no shadow—it’s clean,” he said.
Add contrast with cobalt. Craft your shape with navy and define the inner eye with azure: “I used a lighter blue on the waterline to give the eyes a nice reflection when the flash from the cameras hit them,” he said. “Then I whacked on tons of navy mascara. Navy can read black in certain lighting.”
Lighten up your arches. “A blond pencil is going to offer shape and fullness, but it doesn’t make the brow deeper or darker at all,” said Sir John. “In the fall, Joan and I were all about this elongated ’80s brow, but now that it’s spring/summer and I didn’t have time to bleach her brows, I just wanted to give her a little bit of shape and structure without any heaviness. I didn’t want the brows to compete with the eyes.”
Opt for an updo. “I’m loving girls in ponytails—it puts your face on a pedestal and makes your makeup stand out,” he said. “If you’re going for a statement lip or eye, it’s always great to pull your hair back.”
Make this look your own. “Everyone looks good in navy eyeliner,” said Sir John. “The takeaway here is if you can’t pull off this look, you should still do a navy waterproof liner on the top and bottom lashes with navy mascara.”
read more:www.marieprom.co.uk
photo:www.marieprom.co.uk/evening-dresses
Joan Smalls with her date, jewelry designer Jennifer Fisher
Think outside the black. “Blue is modern. Everyone thinks they can only do a black, gunmetal, or brown smoky eye, so navy was a way of doing something expected in an unexpected color. I want to get as close to denim blue jeans as possible.”
Take a different tack. “A lot of people are going to say, ‘Oh, smoky eyes, they’ve been done.’ But what makes the look modern and pushes it into the future are the texture and the shape. With Joan, we wanted to go big or go home,” said Sir John. “It was all about a blown-out smoky eye, but really lateral. Not a bowl or a round shape, but very elongated and exaggerated—sort of anime in the sense that I wanted to make her eye look like a shape it wasn’t.”
Build your eye before your base. “Shadow can fall down on the cheeks and you can make mistakes without having to worry about ruining your final look,” the pro explained. After crafting the lid look, Sir John perfected the edges around the eyes with tinted moisturizer and concealer before sculpting Smalls’ cheekbones, nose, and temples.
Start small. “One rule of thumb is when you want an exaggerated shape or elongated eye, start close to the lash line, and with any excess product on your brush, make it dissipate outward,” he advised. “If you take a lot of eyeliner and go right into a big shape, it looks garish. Start small and blow it out.”
Reach for a synthetic brush. After rimming the upper and lower lashes with navy eye kohl, Sir John suggests warming up the bands of liner with your fingertip to make them easier to manipulate. Then, use a clean, synthetic concealer brush with short bristles to blend out the shape and finish with a soft, natural-hair brush toeliminate any harsh lines. “With any kind of emollient product like eye kohl, a synthetic brush is going to move it easier than a natural one,” he said. “I would be there all day if I started with a natural-hair blending brush!”
Apply more than one shade. Once you’ve achieved your shape with liner, set it with a trio of shadows. “If you want prismatic, dimensional eyes, you use two to three different jewel tones—not just one because it will be flat,” explained the pro. “I used a deep navy, a navy with a jewel-tone base, and a navy with a silver undertone. I pressed each into the [lid] and washed away any lines with a clean brush.” Just be sure to keep the color strictly on the lid. “What makes it modern is above the crease and on the brow bone, there’s no shadow—it’s clean,” he said.
Add contrast with cobalt. Craft your shape with navy and define the inner eye with azure: “I used a lighter blue on the waterline to give the eyes a nice reflection when the flash from the cameras hit them,” he said. “Then I whacked on tons of navy mascara. Navy can read black in certain lighting.”
Lighten up your arches. “A blond pencil is going to offer shape and fullness, but it doesn’t make the brow deeper or darker at all,” said Sir John. “In the fall, Joan and I were all about this elongated ’80s brow, but now that it’s spring/summer and I didn’t have time to bleach her brows, I just wanted to give her a little bit of shape and structure without any heaviness. I didn’t want the brows to compete with the eyes.”
Opt for an updo. “I’m loving girls in ponytails—it puts your face on a pedestal and makes your makeup stand out,” he said. “If you’re going for a statement lip or eye, it’s always great to pull your hair back.”
Make this look your own. “Everyone looks good in navy eyeliner,” said Sir John. “The takeaway here is if you can’t pull off this look, you should still do a navy waterproof liner on the top and bottom lashes with navy mascara.”
read more:www.marieprom.co.uk
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