Get Joan Smalls’ “Denim” Smoky Eye From the CFDAs
テーマ：ブログ
2015/06/03 15:39
Joan [Smalls] has such a critical eye—in her head she’s a makeup artist!” said face painter Sir John of the supermodel. “I mean, I’m good, but she’s really into it and loves makeup. We can speak makeup talk and I can give her references and she gets it. No other client that I have loves makeup like Joan loves makeup.” And it shows. From the unforgettable violet lip at the 2014 Met Gala to the graphic black liner that winged out at both the inner and outer corners of the eye for the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic this past weekend, Smalls is never one to shy away from a full-on look. Not even last night’s downpour could deter her from the “denim” smoky eye the duo devised a week ago—apropos, seeing as the model recently launched a capsule collection with True Religion. “Even though she has asimple halter dress, I wanted you to be able to see her eyes from a block away,” he said. Mission accomplished. Here, Sir John reveals the secret to pushing the smoky eye “into the future” and why you should “go big or go home.”
photo:www.marieprom.co.uk/evening-dresses
Joan Smalls with her date, jewelry designer Jennifer Fisher
Think outside the black. “Blue is modern. Everyone thinks they can only do a black, gunmetal, or brown smoky eye, so navy was a way of doing something expected in an unexpected color. I want to get as close to denim blue jeans as possible.”
Take a different tack. “A lot of people are going to say, ‘Oh, smoky eyes, they’ve been done.’ But what makes the look modern and pushes it into the future are the texture and the shape. With Joan, we wanted to go big or go home,” said Sir John. “It was all about a blown-out smoky eye, but really lateral. Not a bowl or a round shape, but very elongated and exaggerated—sort of anime in the sense that I wanted to make her eye look like a shape it wasn’t.”
Build your eye before your base. “Shadow can fall down on the cheeks and you can make mistakes without having to worry about ruining your final look,” the pro explained. After crafting the lid look, Sir John perfected the edges around the eyes with tinted moisturizer and concealer before sculpting Smalls’ cheekbones, nose, and temples.
Start small. “One rule of thumb is when you want an exaggerated shape or elongated eye, start close to the lash line, and with any excess product on your brush, make it dissipate outward,” he advised. “If you take a lot of eyeliner and go right into a big shape, it looks garish. Start small and blow it out.”
Reach for a synthetic brush. After rimming the upper and lower lashes with navy eye kohl, Sir John suggests warming up the bands of liner with your fingertip to make them easier to manipulate. Then, use a clean, synthetic concealer brush with short bristles to blend out the shape and finish with a soft, natural-hair brush toeliminate any harsh lines. “With any kind of emollient product like eye kohl, a synthetic brush is going to move it easier than a natural one,” he said. “I would be there all day if I started with a natural-hair blending brush!”
Apply more than one shade. Once you’ve achieved your shape with liner, set it with a trio of shadows. “If you want prismatic, dimensional eyes, you use two to three different jewel tones—not just one because it will be flat,” explained the pro. “I used a deep navy, a navy with a jewel-tone base, and a navy with a silver undertone. I pressed each into the [lid] and washed away any lines with a clean brush.” Just be sure to keep the color strictly on the lid. “What makes it modern is above the crease and on the brow bone, there’s no shadow—it’s clean,” he said.
Add contrast with cobalt. Craft your shape with navy and define the inner eye with azure: “I used a lighter blue on the waterline to give the eyes a nice reflection when the flash from the cameras hit them,” he said. “Then I whacked on tons of navy mascara. Navy can read black in certain lighting.”
Lighten up your arches. “A blond pencil is going to offer shape and fullness, but it doesn’t make the brow deeper or darker at all,” said Sir John. “In the fall, Joan and I were all about this elongated ’80s brow, but now that it’s spring/summer and I didn’t have time to bleach her brows, I just wanted to give her a little bit of shape and structure without any heaviness. I didn’t want the brows to compete with the eyes.”
Opt for an updo. “I’m loving girls in ponytails—it puts your face on a pedestal and makes your makeup stand out,” he said. “If you’re going for a statement lip or eye, it’s always great to pull your hair back.”
Make this look your own. “Everyone looks good in navy eyeliner,” said Sir John. “The takeaway here is if you can’t pull off this look, you should still do a navy waterproof liner on the top and bottom lashes with navy mascara.”
read more:www.marieprom.co.uk
photo:www.marieprom.co.uk/evening-dresses
Joan Smalls with her date, jewelry designer Jennifer Fisher
Think outside the black. “Blue is modern. Everyone thinks they can only do a black, gunmetal, or brown smoky eye, so navy was a way of doing something expected in an unexpected color. I want to get as close to denim blue jeans as possible.”
Take a different tack. “A lot of people are going to say, ‘Oh, smoky eyes, they’ve been done.’ But what makes the look modern and pushes it into the future are the texture and the shape. With Joan, we wanted to go big or go home,” said Sir John. “It was all about a blown-out smoky eye, but really lateral. Not a bowl or a round shape, but very elongated and exaggerated—sort of anime in the sense that I wanted to make her eye look like a shape it wasn’t.”
Build your eye before your base. “Shadow can fall down on the cheeks and you can make mistakes without having to worry about ruining your final look,” the pro explained. After crafting the lid look, Sir John perfected the edges around the eyes with tinted moisturizer and concealer before sculpting Smalls’ cheekbones, nose, and temples.
Start small. “One rule of thumb is when you want an exaggerated shape or elongated eye, start close to the lash line, and with any excess product on your brush, make it dissipate outward,” he advised. “If you take a lot of eyeliner and go right into a big shape, it looks garish. Start small and blow it out.”
Reach for a synthetic brush. After rimming the upper and lower lashes with navy eye kohl, Sir John suggests warming up the bands of liner with your fingertip to make them easier to manipulate. Then, use a clean, synthetic concealer brush with short bristles to blend out the shape and finish with a soft, natural-hair brush toeliminate any harsh lines. “With any kind of emollient product like eye kohl, a synthetic brush is going to move it easier than a natural one,” he said. “I would be there all day if I started with a natural-hair blending brush!”
Apply more than one shade. Once you’ve achieved your shape with liner, set it with a trio of shadows. “If you want prismatic, dimensional eyes, you use two to three different jewel tones—not just one because it will be flat,” explained the pro. “I used a deep navy, a navy with a jewel-tone base, and a navy with a silver undertone. I pressed each into the [lid] and washed away any lines with a clean brush.” Just be sure to keep the color strictly on the lid. “What makes it modern is above the crease and on the brow bone, there’s no shadow—it’s clean,” he said.
Add contrast with cobalt. Craft your shape with navy and define the inner eye with azure: “I used a lighter blue on the waterline to give the eyes a nice reflection when the flash from the cameras hit them,” he said. “Then I whacked on tons of navy mascara. Navy can read black in certain lighting.”
Lighten up your arches. “A blond pencil is going to offer shape and fullness, but it doesn’t make the brow deeper or darker at all,” said Sir John. “In the fall, Joan and I were all about this elongated ’80s brow, but now that it’s spring/summer and I didn’t have time to bleach her brows, I just wanted to give her a little bit of shape and structure without any heaviness. I didn’t want the brows to compete with the eyes.”
Opt for an updo. “I’m loving girls in ponytails—it puts your face on a pedestal and makes your makeup stand out,” he said. “If you’re going for a statement lip or eye, it’s always great to pull your hair back.”
Make this look your own. “Everyone looks good in navy eyeliner,” said Sir John. “The takeaway here is if you can’t pull off this look, you should still do a navy waterproof liner on the top and bottom lashes with navy mascara.”
read more:www.marieprom.co.uk
Sonam Kapoor wore them first!
テーマ：ブログ
2015/06/01 16:48
Did you know about brands like Ralph & Russo and Delpozo before Sonam Kapoor started wearing them on the red carpet? From rocking Ashi Studio dresses on many occasions to owning designer Toni Maticevski like a pro to killing it in brands like Jean-Louis Sabaji and Isabel Sanchis — Sonam’s style experimentation has been the ultimate core-shaker for the comatose Indian red carpet. The fashionista shares, “Every designer has a distinct voice. Fashion is art and it’s about collecting things. It’s about taste. You need to have that eye for real style. Nobody had heard of Ralph & Russo and Ashi Studio. After I wore them, a lot of celebs and their stylists started calling for them. It’s flattering, but also good for the designers and the fashion industry. If designers themselves weren’t good, people won’t wear them! By and by, girls became aware of these names and they got mainstream. If Masaba wasn’t Masaba, people won’t buy her designs. People became aware that she is around. Gaurang was another brand people didn’t know about. Be it Payal Pratap, Dhruv Kapoor or Shift — people slowly started warming up to these labels. I enjoy fashion and I’m always on the lookout for something new and I don’t want to look like every other girl. I had worn an Ashi Studio dress and later saw it on two or three girls who wore it in the same colour but slightly different cuts.” One’s keen to ask Sonam how does she pick clothes. “Whatever I feel at that time. Muzaffar Ali is one label which has been around for so long and people have now started getting aware of it. Anuradha Vakil is another example. These are some of the names who have never been part of the mainstreamBollywood films but they have worked hard on their craft and need visibility.” Sonam and Rhea have emerged to be the ultimate dream style team. She shares, “Rhea understands my taste, for example, I had seen the Ralph & Russo blue dress at Cannes online and loved it. In the beginning she wasn’t sure about it and later she realised it’s fantastic and she eventually agreed.”
Leading the way
While Sonam led the way, her contemporaries followed, aping several of her looks be it the Dior sheath dresses or Vivenne Westwood’s artisanal creations. The style huntress was the first to sport the Pac-man print sari by Yogesh Chaudhary and the look became the talking point in the chic corridors what with the fash-frat replicating it though with much less success. While promoting Krrish 3 in Dubai, Kangana Ranaut was spotted in the same Pre-Fall 2013 Gucci dress that was seen on Sonam a few months ago.
While Sonam dazzled in a Halston Heritage lamé gown in her first Koffee With Karan appearance, her contemporary Deepika Padukone later sported a very identical look (Ibella by Ramona Narang, which was a Halston copy) at a Kingfisher Calendar event in 2011. Sonam says, “This is not up to me to say, it’s flattering if they are. If I wear a certain brand and it gets picked up and other stylists call for the same outfit, I don’t think it’s copying. If I saw something cool on someone I’d do it. It’s not something to be upset about.”
Standing out in a sea of clichés
photo:www.marieprom.co.uk/grey-silver-prom-dresses
Breaking the cocoon of clichéd, seen-to-death labels and picking styles from brands as diverse as Rosie Assoulin and Gaurang (an Indian textile label) — Miss Kapoor’s sartorial picks have been a refreshing change giving a respite from the rough-and-tumble of overworked style machinations.
Helping sell young labels
Designer Masaba had shared in an interview with this newspaper, “My saris never sold before. Now, Sonam endorses them and wears them frequently and that has changed around differently.” Her open-mindedness to newer styles, aesthetic and ideas has helped inject a magic potion to relatively younger brands like Vivek Karunakaran, Shehla Khan, Suhani Pittie, Debashri Samantha and Swati Vijaivargie.
You go, girl!
Sis Rhea who is well known to try lesser known and up-and-coming designers while styling Sonam says, “Now I am very comfortable with my styling boots. Express yourself, go for it. Whenever I am on the Internet and I come across new designers, I write them emails. I get excited using new designers. I love it. It’s just fresh and fun and why not embrace it and have fun with it. The more you have fun, the more people will pick up on it.”
Bourgeois is so last season, honey!
Sonam’s sartorial picks have heads turn and broken the notion that — red carpet is always about looking expensive. This year at the races, Sonam rocked a black and grey look in a Neha Taneja dress clubbing it with a pair of Dior pumps and a Philip Treacy hat. During the Dolly Ki Doli promotions, she wore designers like Geisha Designs and Arpita Mehta. She made a Dhruv Kapoor midi skirt quite popular which was seen on other Bollywood ingenues like Kriti Sanon.
Mom’s inputs
Sonam shares, “My mom (Sunita Kapoor) used to be a fashion designer and then she took a break to focus on us. We’ve imbibed everything from her — be it textiles, interiors or Indian clothes. We know the difference between chanderi, raw silk, jamewar and zari. Mom has instilled that knowledge in us. She dresses in a certain way. When she was younger, she’d wear fanny packs, which Moschino has made popular now. She used to pick vintage finds, old zari work and Pakistani pants.” Clearly, the style gene runs in the family. No wonder Sonam grew into such a well-liked and respected fashionistas.
read more:www.marieprom.co.uk/pink-prom-dresses
Leading the way
While Sonam led the way, her contemporaries followed, aping several of her looks be it the Dior sheath dresses or Vivenne Westwood’s artisanal creations. The style huntress was the first to sport the Pac-man print sari by Yogesh Chaudhary and the look became the talking point in the chic corridors what with the fash-frat replicating it though with much less success. While promoting Krrish 3 in Dubai, Kangana Ranaut was spotted in the same Pre-Fall 2013 Gucci dress that was seen on Sonam a few months ago.
While Sonam dazzled in a Halston Heritage lamé gown in her first Koffee With Karan appearance, her contemporary Deepika Padukone later sported a very identical look (Ibella by Ramona Narang, which was a Halston copy) at a Kingfisher Calendar event in 2011. Sonam says, “This is not up to me to say, it’s flattering if they are. If I wear a certain brand and it gets picked up and other stylists call for the same outfit, I don’t think it’s copying. If I saw something cool on someone I’d do it. It’s not something to be upset about.”
Standing out in a sea of clichés
photo:www.marieprom.co.uk/grey-silver-prom-dresses
Breaking the cocoon of clichéd, seen-to-death labels and picking styles from brands as diverse as Rosie Assoulin and Gaurang (an Indian textile label) — Miss Kapoor’s sartorial picks have been a refreshing change giving a respite from the rough-and-tumble of overworked style machinations.
Helping sell young labels
Designer Masaba had shared in an interview with this newspaper, “My saris never sold before. Now, Sonam endorses them and wears them frequently and that has changed around differently.” Her open-mindedness to newer styles, aesthetic and ideas has helped inject a magic potion to relatively younger brands like Vivek Karunakaran, Shehla Khan, Suhani Pittie, Debashri Samantha and Swati Vijaivargie.
You go, girl!
Sis Rhea who is well known to try lesser known and up-and-coming designers while styling Sonam says, “Now I am very comfortable with my styling boots. Express yourself, go for it. Whenever I am on the Internet and I come across new designers, I write them emails. I get excited using new designers. I love it. It’s just fresh and fun and why not embrace it and have fun with it. The more you have fun, the more people will pick up on it.”
Bourgeois is so last season, honey!
Sonam’s sartorial picks have heads turn and broken the notion that — red carpet is always about looking expensive. This year at the races, Sonam rocked a black and grey look in a Neha Taneja dress clubbing it with a pair of Dior pumps and a Philip Treacy hat. During the Dolly Ki Doli promotions, she wore designers like Geisha Designs and Arpita Mehta. She made a Dhruv Kapoor midi skirt quite popular which was seen on other Bollywood ingenues like Kriti Sanon.
Mom’s inputs
Sonam shares, “My mom (Sunita Kapoor) used to be a fashion designer and then she took a break to focus on us. We’ve imbibed everything from her — be it textiles, interiors or Indian clothes. We know the difference between chanderi, raw silk, jamewar and zari. Mom has instilled that knowledge in us. She dresses in a certain way. When she was younger, she’d wear fanny packs, which Moschino has made popular now. She used to pick vintage finds, old zari work and Pakistani pants.” Clearly, the style gene runs in the family. No wonder Sonam grew into such a well-liked and respected fashionistas.
read more:www.marieprom.co.uk/pink-prom-dresses
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